Saturday, 23 January, 2021

Gloria Veronica Sammartino
University of Buenos Aires

From the perspective of a decolonial perspective, the objective of this article is to identify the game of visibilities and invisibilities implicit in the processes of patrimonialization and ethnomercantilization, such as the emerging tensions and alterities in the food practices of stigmatized and denied sectors of the global south. Three cases are presented that emerge from different studies focused on food issues. In the first, the emergency of food and meals “rescued” for the tourist market stands out, which in its re-aestheticization conceals the otherness that refers to indigenous and peasant roots. In the second, the reconfiguration of food identities is observed from the circulation of immigrant foods where the marks of racism, xenophobia and the commercialized reconfiguration of them appear after the vigorous boom that the meals of this community assume at the international level. In the third, the “know-how” of migrant groups stands out, which in the new context continue to incorporate the tastes and flavors in which they are recognized as carriers and members of a community that does not unleash enthusiasm as a cultural resource on the part of the receiving society. The three cases have elements that embody and tense historically constructed racial categorizations and legitimize superiority / inferiority relationships, reproducing colonial legacies that perpetuate social inequality. Finally, it seeks to show connections between emancipatory food heritage and strategies within the framework of the right to food.

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